Your Ranger Point Henry Trigger Kit consists of a sear and a spring. The sear alone will reduce trigger pull weight to approximately 3.5 lbs, and make the break much more crisp. Only install the spring if you want a lighter, competition weight trigger. Note: our testing of the Henry 410 shotgun models revealed a lighter than normal trigger from the factory, and our sear alone reduced pull weight below 3 lbs.
1. Ensure the rifle’s chamber and magazine are empty.
2. Remove the butt stock by withdrawing the screw at the rear of the top receiver tang and sliding the butt stock rearward. Some gentle bumps with the palm of your hand may be necessary.
3. Lower the hammer fully, then unload the hammer spring by rotating the top of the spring strut bridge sideways until it is free from the receiver tang.
4. Open the finger lever partially, then remove the lever pivot screw and withdraw the lever from the bottom of the receiver. Push the breech bolt forward into battery. It can remain in the receiver.
5. Remove the three screws holding the trigger plate: a) the hammer pivot nearest the butt stock on the right side of the receiver, b) the large bottom screw about ¾” behind the forearm, and c) the left side support screw.
6. Lay the rifle on its side, with ejection port up, and draw the trigger plate out of the bottom of the receiver, followed by the hammer, if it remains inside. Observe: the trigger group with its bright metal linkage and tall “L” shaped transfer bar. These items should be left undisturbed, but take a couple of pictures of their orientation in case they fall out.
7. Use finger and thumb to depress the sear coil spring and remove it from its seat at the left side of the sear.
8. Use a 1/16” punch to push the sear pivot pin out of its race to free the sear (the beaked object behind the trigger that looks just like the RPP replacement part).
9. Install the RPP sear in the spot just vacated by the factory part. The trigger safety tab behind the trigger must be pushed up slightly to get the sear pivot pin all the way through. Install the sear spring by seating it, compressing it, and tucking the top under the trigger linkage tab. Use the factory spring for 3.5lb pull, and RPP spring for approximately 3lb pull.
10. Rotate the L shaped transfer bar to point up, away from the trigger plate, then slide the hammer onto it. The transfer bar should go into the channel on the front face of the hammer, behind the roll pin.
11. Keeping the entire trigger and hammer assembly together, slide the trigger plate back up into the receiver, threading the hammer spur through the slot behind the bolt. Align the hammer visually, then reinstall the hammer pivot screw loosely, followed by the two trigger plate screws (the shorter goes on the left side). Tighten all three screws.
12. With the hammer fully forward (don’t forget the trigger safety must be depressed to pull the trigger), reinstall the hammer spring, and then the hammer strut bridge, by forcing the bridge forward onto the strut until the base of the bridge seats in the lower tang slot. A hard pusher tool, like a flat screwdriver, can make things less painful.
13. Hold the rifle upright, cock the hammer, then use your thumb to withdraw the bolt slightly, and reinstall the lever and pivot screw, being sure to get the thin blade into the bolt slot.
14. Shut the lever, and pointing in a safe direction always, test the trigger. If all is well, reinstall the butt stock with its attendant screw.
To access the trigger, the lower tang must be removed. To get the lower tang to slide out you must first:
1. Remove the lever and locking lugs. To remove them, you must disconnect these parts from the bolt. First, unscrew the cover screw on the left side of the receiver. This screw is opposite a peep hole on the right side of the receiver. Once the screw is removed, you can push the pin out by using an appropriate punch. It only comes out one way, from right to left. Now that the bolt pin is free, simply move the lever slightly forward like you are cycling the action. Pull down, and the lever and locking blocks can be removed out the bottom.
2. Remove the stock. Quite simple, reverse the tang screw out the top. Then pull backwards to have it slide off the rear.
3. Next, capture the mainspring powering the hammer. As the hammer is cocked back, a small pin hole is exposed on the guide rod for the mainspring. Use a small piece of wire, like a paper clip, to slide into this pin hole and to take spring pressure off the hammer. This will also keep the mainspring captured, which will make reassembly much easier.
4. Remove the hammer screw. It's head is on the right side of the receiver. This screw has only a few threads and acts as an axle for the hammer to rotate around.
5. The lower tang can now slide out from the rear. You might need to use a plastic punch to get the tang motivated to move out of the receiver. The hammer should be able to fall out once the tang is removed, so be careful. Since the hammer also prevents the bolt from coming completely out, the bolt will be able to slide out too. Take care not to accidentally lose anything. If the bolt slides all the way out simply slide it back in.
The trigger is pinned to the tang. Note that the trigger spring is a flat spring secured by a blind screw. Simply back the screw out to remove the spring. We include two springs due to the fact that Rossi has recently shortened the overall length of this part in recent years. Compare your factory part to the two options to see which one it needs. Both of our included springs are the same reduced power. To remove the trigger, press out the pin securing it to the tang.
Installation is largely the reverse order of disassembly. However, do note that both the bolt and the hammer need to be in position before the lower tang is slid back on. The bolt needs to be in its raceway, as the hammer will block it from going back in. The hammer should be 'floating' in it's slot in the upper tang, as you must install it through the bottom with the lower tang removed. Take care to align the hammer's mainspring and guide rod with the hole in the lower tang while installing the lower tang. Once the lower tang is in position, the metal wire keeping the mainspring compressed can be removed.
How to Take Apart a Rossi
Why a Three Rail Arrangement?
The Costa Ludus/Ranger Point Handguard + Rail System was designed to provide lever gun shooters with exceptional flexibility in setup and cost while safeguarding the qualities of handling and accuracy that we love about these fine firearms. In order to meet all these goals we split the top picatinny rail into 3 separate sections. The handguard can be used with all 3 picatinny top rails, none, or any combination of two. It’s worth noting that installing one or more Gator rails makes the handguard even stronger.
In order to accommodate a range of manufacturing tolerances in the host rifles, we have imbued the entire handguard/rail system with adjustable fitments. It’s important to understand that when we talk about manufacturing tolerances we are talking about a universal phenomenon. As an example, there is really no such thing as a straight barrel. Each OEM must decide for themselves how much curvature is acceptable, and it is pretty well understood that a noticeably curved barrel can still shoot well.
Our job in the aftermarket is to work with or around this range of tolerances and still achieve the desired result. In the case of tube fed lever guns whose handguards attach to the barrel, this can be a challenge, because we want everything to align with the receiver, but the barrel is not running true.
We made a deliberate decision not to use a continuous top rail in order to mitigate the effect of manufacturing tolerances on accuracy. Our past experience as custom lever gun builders taught us that accuracy generally falls off when one ties the receiver to the barrel with a continuous rail. For the same reason, we strongly advise against “bridging” the receiver rail to a Gator Rail with a single optic.
In the basic handguard installation instructions, we looked at initial installation of all the parts. For many, the basic install will be adequate. These fine tuning instructions are for those who need/desire very good alignment between all three rails either for aesthetic reasons or because they are running optics in series.
The Costa/RPP Handguard + Rail system has adjustment in 3 ways:
1. Laterally at the receiver junction–via the angled set screws.
2. Laterally at the mounting tenon–via the perpendicular set screws and the tenon itself.
3. Vertically at each leg of the “Gator Rails” using jack screws.
Three Rail Alignment Procedures–beginning with the handguard already installed.
- Install the receiver rail. Use threadlock and torque to 10 in/lbs.
- Temporarily install both Gator Rails, heads pointing toward muzzle.
- Sighting along the central groove, check alignment of the Gators to the receiver rail. First adjust for angular alignment from receiver to mounting tenon by loosening the forward set screws and carefully bumping the handguard from side to side. Apply threadlock to the set screws and snug them against the barrel with 7 in/lbs torque.
- Next, check lateral alignment at the receiver/Gator junction. If there is misalignment, use the rear (angled) set screws to pull the back of the handguard from side to side. There is only a small amount of adjustment here. Secure the set screws with threadlock and 7 in/lbs of torque. Recheck angular alignment of the entire system.
- Check vertical alignment of Gator rails to receiver rail. Use a straightedge pressed along the top of the receiver rail, or flip the rifle upside down on a smooth, flat surface. If there is a step down from the receiver rail to the Gator rail, apply threadlock to the jack screws (6-32 set screws) and use them to raise the Gator rail on its legs. Be sure to loosen any installed mount screws (8-32 low profile head) to allow the feet to jack up. Turn left and right set screws in equal increments to maintain level.
- Once aligned and level with the receiver rail, apply threadlock to all four mounting screws and install them using 8 in/lbs of torque (too much will draw the foot down toward the handguard).
- Repeat steps 5 and 6 with the forwardmost Gator Rail, aligning it with the mid rail. Be sure to apply threadlock to all screws.
Thank you for purchasing our Henry M-LOK handguard! At Ranger Point, we love to see good products work their way up from the mailroom to greatness. Even our legacy best sellers get regular attention from R&D to make sure they are the best they can be. At the beginning of 2022, we took a hard look at our best selling modular M-LOK handguards. Goal #1 was to streamline the manufacturing process to better meet demand. The resulting Gen 2 Handguards have the same great aesthetic and robust functionality as our popular Gen 1 parts, but are built from a single, solid billet of aluminum. This allowed for an increase in rigidity, as well as a reduction in weight and the addition of new features, such as the loading port cutout on some Henry models.
Robust build quality
In addition to its hard anodized 6061 aluminum construction, the RPP handguard is supplied with purpose built mounting hardware that is significantly stronger than Henry factory hardware.
We wanted to guarantee a drop in fit, with no alterations required. Unfortunately, rifle tolerances can vary quite a bit, so we knew we couldn’t achieve this goal with precise machining alone. So we came up with our proprietary set screw system. Incorporating two pairs of set screws allows our handguard to accommodate a wide range of tolerances without having to alter parts. The forward set screws, just above the mounting points, eliminate lateral movement of the handguard, a common problem with other systems.
Our handguard offers compatibility with all standard M-LOK accessories as well as flush cup style QD attachments. All both sides and the bottom offer mounting points for both. There is a threaded hole for traditional sling studs on the bottom as well.
While this is a subjective category, we tested numerous designs before settling on this one as the best. The flat bottom provides stability when shooting from a rest, the slender width accommodates most hand sizes, and deep finger grooves along the top offer excellent control for offhand shooting. Throughout, you’ll find radiused, chamfered, or tumbled edges to make the guard comfortable on bare hands. No cheese graters here.
STOP. THINK ABOUT THIS FOR A MINUTE: THERE IS A HIGH LIKELIHOOD THAT YOU MAY DAMAGE YOUR RIFLE WHEN YOU ATTEMPT TO DISASSEMBLE IT. UNLIKE OTHERS, THE HENRY RIFLES CAN BE DIFFICULT TO REMOVE THE FACTORY FOREARM, SO WE ENCOURAGE YOU TO SEEK EXPERT HELP, LIKE THAT OFFERED BY LOUTHAN GUN WORKS. IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO THE INSTALL YOURSELF, YOU ARE ASSUMING RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR RIFLE AND/OR YOUR NEW RPP HANDGUARD.
Henry Big Boy, Pistol Caliber Rifles: Hidden Magazine Tube Screw (Step 1)
Henry Pistol Caliber + Big Bore Caliber Rifles: Installation Video
1) Remove forend tenon screws (2). There is one slotted screw on either side of the forend, several inches forward of the receiver. Remove completely and set aside. These will not be reused.
2) Bump the factory forend toward the muzzle, just enough to clear the receiver flange. On X models this is fairly easy, as a plastic mallet can be used against the sling stud molded into the forearm. On wooden forends, care must be taken not to damage the wood.
3) Drive the magazine tenon out of its dovetail mount in the barrel. Leave the inner (brass) mag tube in place, set the rifle on armorer’s blocks, ejection port down, and use a delrin punch to carefully drive the magazine tenon out of its dovetail. If you do this carelessly, or with too much force, you will damage your magazine tube.
4) Disassemble the magazine from the receiver. Remove the inner mag tube first. Then with the rifle belly up, remove the slotted set screw near the front of the trigger plate. Then use a 5/64 allen key to remove the recessed set screw under the slotted one just removed. Now pull the steel outer mag tub out of the receiver (they can be a tight fit) and completely off the rifle.
5) Remove the factory forend tenon and install the RPP heavy duty tenon. The tenon is milled to be a snug fit in a range of dovetail cut tolerances. Do not attempt to drift it in if it is very tight. The tenon is weak in its thin midsection until it is installed. Ranger Point does not warranty tenons damaged during installation. Lap the flat of the tenon as necessary, on sandpaper, until it can be drifted in easily. Be mindful to center the tenon on the barrel.
6) Assemble the mag tube and handguard onto the rifle. Slip the steel outer mag tube through the RPP handguard until it protrudes slightly through the receiver end of the guard. Rotate the mag until the loading port and set screw hole are properly indexed, then push/wiggle the tube into the receiver port, and install the two set screws removed earlier from the trigger plate.. Slide the handguard flange into the receiver and loosely install the two 8-32 mounting screws. Reversing your previous procedure, reinstall the brass inner magazine, and drift the mag tube tenon back into its dovetail cut near the muzzle. Proceed carefully, and center the tube.
7) Install all fasteners with a drop of low or medium strength thread locker. Remove and reinstall the 8-32 mount screws with threadlocker, being sure to push the handguard firmly into the receiver. Ensure the handguard is centered on the barrel, then install the (4) set screws to lock the guard in position. There are (2) at 40 degree angles just in front of the receiver, and (2) perpendicular to the sides, just above the mount screws, to keep the handguard from migrating to the left or right. Do not over tighten! Snug the set screws evenly, with just enough torque to seat them positively against the barrel. RPP will not warranty stripped fasteners/parts. Replacement screws are sold on our website.
8) Install any accessories. Your new RPP M-LOK handguard accepts a huge variety of standardized accessories, like our hugely popular cartridge quivers, which you probably purchased already. Get that good stuff on there, and go shoot!
This kit was engineered with light weight and easy installation in mind. The retaining cap has a soft rubber O-ring and washer installed, which must be in place for proper function. The O-ring accommodates variations in length tolerance, as well as helping to absorb recoil force.
- Disassemble factory magazine
- Remove the front sight ramp (some sights may have to be drifted out to gain screw access).
- Remove the magazine cap screw (the cap is under spring pressure).
- Remove the front barrel band screw.
- Remove the rear band screw/pin. A punch may be necessary to push it out.
- Drip some oil around the front barrel band (to protect finish) and slide the barrel band off the barrel and mag tube. It is not necessary to remove the rear band.
- Be sure to retrieve the magazine follower, which may still be inside the receiver or forend.
1) With the large diameter shoulder toward receiver, index the X-1 tube so that the crosspin recess is up, toward the barrel.
2) Slide the tube into the forend and seat it in the receiver opening. It should be just below flush with the front of the forend.
3) Install the follower and spring fully into the tube. With the spring relaxed (but seated), measure just over 2 inches of free length in front of the forend and clip the excess spring with diagonal cutters.
4) Orient the retaining cap so that the crosspin lug is up toward the barrel, and install it over the spring and tube ( a little wiggling may help in capturing the tube). Slide the cap in until it seats (about ¼” protruding).
5) Look through the barrel band crosspin hole to check alignment. Modest pressure against the cap may be necessary to align the crosspin slot. Install the factory crosspin and tighten it with modest torque.
6) If you want to use the included front crosspin slot cover sleeve, degrease the barrel, put a thin smear of silicon adhesive around the pin slot area, and slide the sleeve into position. Reinstall your front sight with blue thread lock, test the mag for function, and go shoot!
Before beginning disassembly, verify that your rifle has standard forend mounting points. Most Marlins have one of two standard length forearm styles, but there are exceptions, such as Youth models and the odd 1894CL. Hold the RPP handguard up next to your rifle’s forearm and ensure that either the barrel band or cap mounting points match up.
FOREARM END CAP MODELS
- Remove forend cap screws (2) and magazine cap screw. Caution: mag caps are under spring tension. On 1894 models with front barrel bands, the mag cap will be released when the screw is withdrawn. These models will require removal of the front sight in order to get the band off. All others will be seated on a post.
- Slide the forend cap forward, away from the forearm, and lift the forearm away from the barrel. Remember that the mag cap will be released as the mag is lifted off its post. Forearms are often tightly fitted between receiver and barrel tenon. If the forearm will not easily lift away from the barrel, grasp the mag tube close to the forearm and gently use it as a pry bar. If this doesn’t work, drive a wooden or plastic wedge between the mag tube and barrel, again close to the forearm. Be aware that tightly fitted forearms may splinter when pried off the tenon.
- Test fit the RPP Modular Handguard into the receiver flange. Start the rear flange into the receiver with the handguard held at a slight angle to the barrel. Upward pressure will be required (against the barrel) in order to compress the bedding pads in the rear flange. Once started, you may use a wood or plastic block to gently tap the handguard fully into place, holding it parallel to the barrel. If the handguard will not go into the receiver flange, STOP and call RPP for further instructions.
- Once fit is assured, set the handguard aside, and drift out the factory forearm tenon. Then install the RPP tenon. Recommended tenon fit is snug, but not excessively tight. A light friction fit will suffice, but a loose fit will be weak. If the tenon is too tight, slowly lap the flat on sandpaper over a flat surface, until the tenon can be drifted in with moderate force (Moderate! or it can bend). Position the tenon so that the mag tube is properly aligned with the barrel when lying in the cradle of the tenon. Check handguard alignment as well. Once proper placement is achieved, the tenon should be staked or Loctited in place. Be careful NOT to strip the screws.
- Install the mag tube into the RPP handguard so that it is through both end caps and protruding slightly from the rear one. Be sure to index holes/slots in the tube appropriately.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Just as with your factory forend, end cap models, magazine tubes must be put inside the forend channel and properly indexed before assembly. The two parts should be assembled to the rifle in tandem. This is critical in the case of 1895s and 444s with bulged magazine tubes.
Marlin Barrel Band Models
BARREL BAND MODELS
- Remove (unscrew) the front sight ramp. It may be necessary to drift out the sight blade on some models to expose the second screw.
- Remove the magazine cap screw while preventing the cap from launching under spring pressure.
- Remove the front and rear barrel band screws and slide both bands forward off the barrel. Tip: put a few drops of oil around both bands to ease disassembly and help prevent finish scratches.
- Pull forend and mag tube off rifle and test fit your new RPP forend. See fitting instructions below if necessary.
- Install the RPP barrel band adapter onto the barrel. The screw head counterbore should be on the right. Put a drop of blue thread lock on the band screw threads, install the screw through the existing crosspin slot in the barrel, then gradually snug the screw while keeping the band indexed on the receiver (as viewed from muzzle).
- Check fit and barrel channel alignment of the forearm. Adjust band index if necessary, then tighten the screw with modest torque.
- Put blue thread lock on the supplied attachment screws, install them, and then slide the mag tube through the forearm and into the receiver port.
- Reinstall mag follower and spring, then front barrel band and magazine cap.
Please Note: These replacement levers do not come with a plunger, cross pin or spring. You’ll be able to re-use the parts from your factory lever as part of the installation process.
Remove Factory Lever - Open your action and check—then double check—that the rifle is unloaded. Return the lever to about the halfway point, remove the lever pivot screw, and then slide your old lever down and out of the action.
Re-use parts from Factory Lever – Remove the plunger, cross pin and spring from your factory lever. Lay the lever on a supportive block right side up. Use a 1/16 inch punch (file a few 1000th of an inch off diameter) to drive the plunger cross pinout toward the left. Remove the plunger and spring and insert them into the new lever. Use an oversized punch to drive the cross pin back in from left to right taking note of the splined end of the cross pin.
New Marlin Factory Parts - Same instructions as above with one change before driving in pin. Insert spring and plunger and depress until flush with lever. If it’s painful to do so, remove the spring and clip off 1 coil.
Shims - Install one or more on either side of lever at pivot screw.
Install RPP Lever in the reverse manner, being sure to engage the control blade in its corresponding bolt slot. Operate the action, feeling for hitches or excessive friction. As a final check, close the action, lower the hammer all the way, and then pop the lever open just past the plunger. You should feel a small amount of free travel in the lever right after the plunger disengages from the receiver pin. If everything feels right, you are ready to shoot. If not, your lever may need some minor fitting.
If you have any fitting problems, please email us at email@example.com
INFO WE NEED TO HELP: Remove bolt/ejector and cycle the lever. Smooth? If not, where in the cycle does it get tight?
Installation Instructions for RPP Marlin Trigger
Important! Installing this trigger will substantially reduce the effort necessary to fire the weapon, and significantly increase the possibility of an accidental discharge if safe practices are not followed. Remember the important firearm safety rule: Never put your finger on the trigger until the gun is pointed at a target you intend to fire upon. You, the end user, are responsible for the safe use of your firearm, always. No firearm should be deemed safe for live fire until it has been tested unloaded.
- Check—then double check—that your rifle is unloaded, with chamber empty
- Remove butt stock screw from top rear tang, then gently bump and pull stock rearward off receiver.
- De-cock hammer to at rest position against bolt (safety off if applicable)
- Pull hammer spring bridge sideways from between upper and lower tangs, releasing hammer spring.
- Open lever partially, remove lever pivot screw, and pull lever downward out of receiver.
- Invert rifle on a workbench and remove forward action screw just behind forearm/receiver junction.
- Lay rifle on right side and remove trigger plate support screw at low center of receiver.
- Lay rifle on left side and remove hammer pivot screw at rear of receiver.
- Remove hammer, then grasp lower tang and pull trigger plate out of receiver bottom.
- Locate large diameter trigger pivot pin on trigger plate, and use a small punch to push it out, releasing the factory trigger and sear. Unless the parts are old and crusty, a hammer is not necessary.
- Take the opportunity to clean and lubricate the action and small parts. It isn’t necessary to remove any other screws. The locking lug will slide out of the bottom of the receiver. The bolt will slide out to the rear (careful not to lose the ejector inside the bolt channel). The carrier will swing downward. Go ahead and check that loading gate screw for tightness
- Time to install your new trigger! For this step strong lighting will be helpful. Taking care not to separate the RP trigger and sear, slide the assembly upward into the trigger plate, allowing the bottom of the trigger to rotate forward. Be sure the sear is behind the lever plunger catch pin. Using your thumb near the top of the trigger face, push the assembly up and back against the sear spring until you can see the pivot holes align. With your other hand, start the freshly oiled pivot pin in the opposite side of the trigger plate. Using both hands to keep the trigger assembly aligned, finish installing the pivot pin by pushing the entire trigger plate gently down onto your workbench, wiggling the trigger assembly as necessary for alignment. Excessive force should never be necessary. Take your time, and remember that the sear and trigger can move independently.
- Reassemble the action. Be sure to put that locking lug back in, then push the trigger plate back into the bottom of the receiver. If the fit is tight, use a screwdriver handle to tap it into position until the screw holes line up.
- Place a drop of blue Loctite (optional, but recommended) on the two trigger plate screws—but not the hammer pivot! Install the foremost (longer) screw first, finger tight, then the left side (shorter) support screw. Be sure of alignment, as it is easy to cross thread the support screw.
- Slide the hammer, strut first, through the opening in the top tang, and wrangle it into position at the pivot. To do this you will need to fully depress the trigger to get the sear out of the way, and to do that you need to disengage the trigger safety by pushing the tab upward with a thumb. Once the trigger is depressed, the hammer should slide easily into alignment at the pivot hole.
- Install the hammer pivot screw. Once the threads are started flip the rifle over and get a drop of blue Loctite into the receiver threads at the hammer pivot, then torque all three actions screws and wipe away excess thread lock.
- Install your choice of hammer spring on the hammer strut. The factory spring (shorter) will give a trigger pull weight of roughly 3.5 lbs, whereas a Wolff Reduced Power Hammer Spring will typically give a pull weight of less than 3 lbs, as well as reducing cycling effort. If you are not comfortable with a 2.5-3lb trigger pull, then don’t use the Wolff power spring!
- With the hammer spring/strut angled outward, put the bridge in place and compress the spring until the lower leg of the bridge can be set into its groove in the lower tang. Continue compressing the spring until the upper leg of the bridge can be pushed under the upper tang, and center the bridge in the receiver.
- Reinstall remaining parts in reverse order of disassembly.
- Test your trigger! With the rifle empty, check pull weight and verify that it will be safe for you or any less experienced shooter who may use your rifle.
- Perform a bump test. With the rifle unloaded and hammer cocked, bump the butt pad of the rifle firmly on a padded floor to verify the hammer doesn’t drop. Just don’t get carried away and crack your stock.
- Before fielding the rifle, verify that the hammer will reliably ignite live primers/ammo in a safe shooting environment. This is especially important if using the reduced power hammer spring.
- Test fit the dovetail blank in the barrel cut. In most cases, it will slide in easily, or with gentle tapping. Do not attempt to drift the blank in with a punch, as this will damage the thin side edges.
- If the blank does not fit, use a file or sandpaper to remove material from the fore/aft sharp edges (not bevels). If removing a few thousands of an inch doesn't get a fit, the bottom of the blank may need to be lapped on fine sandpaper to loosen the overall fit. Cold blue may be used for touching up bare metal.
- Once a slip fit is achieved, degrease the blank and the dovetail cut, then apply red Loctite (or similar) generously to help fill voids and prevent rust. Wipe away excess and let set. Apply gun oil after adhesive sets.
Ranger Point profiled dovetail blanks are specially machined to mount flush on Marlin Firearms round rifle barrels. These already “profiled” dovetail blanks install in minutes and save you the 1-2 hours of filing necessary to fit other “blanks.”
The gun will need to be partially disassembled - just go slow, and remember that each screw needs to return to it's original home, so get a piece of cardboard box, draw an approximation of the receiver on it, and poke a hole in your drawing where each screw can rest until reassembly
1) Clear the rifle & ensure the chamber and magazine are EMPTY.
2) Unscrew/remove the tang screw from the upper/rear receiver tang, and pull off the butt stock to the rear.
3) Partially open bolt/lever, remove lever pivot screw and slide lever out of the bottom of the receiver (no need to remove bolt)
4) De-cock the hammer with the safety disengaged. Push forward on the hammer spring bridge and pull or push out one side of its groove. This will free the hammer spring.
5) Remove hammer pivot screw, bottom trigger plate screw and side support screws to free the trigger plate from the receiver.
6) Remove the trigger plate / lower tang from the bottom of the receiver (some gentle prying may be needed).
7) Pull the locking lug out of the bottom of the receiver and swing the carrier out of the receiver (no need to remove the carrier pivot screw)
8) Unscrew the loading gate spring (1” behind he loading gate opening) and install the new gate and screw it in
Reassemble in reverse order.
A) HOW TO MEASURE SIGHT HEIGHTS
Calculating Front Sight Height
Step 1: Measure barrel outside diameter, A, and put the dimension in the Barrel Diameter at Rear Sight field.
Step 2: Measure total rear sight height, B. Put the answer in the Rear Sight Height field.
Step 3: Measure barrel outside diameter, C, and put the answer in the Barrel Diameter at Front Sight field.
Use this Calculator to find out the Front Sight diameter, D, will be figured for you.
Calculating Rear Sight Height
Step 1: Measure barrel outside diameter, A, and put the dimension in the Barrel Diameter at Rear Sight field.
Step 2: Measure barrel outside diameter, C, and put the answer in the Barrel Diameter at Front Sight field.
Step 3: Measure total front sight height, D. Put the answer in the Front Sight Height field.
Use this Calculator to find the Rear Sight diameter, B, which will be figured for you.
Front Sight Windage
The front sight can be moved left (if shooting too far left) or right for the opposite windage. A couple of drops of red loctite can hold the front sight in place once you have it set.
Rear Sight Elevation
Pull the rear sight up to where you need it to align with the front sight. Shooting to high (move the rear sight lower) and vice versa for shooting too low.
This technique can be used for any front rifle sight with a dovetail or with a ramped dovetail. Remove factory front sight using brass or nylon punch while barrel is securely locked in vice. Clean the dovetail of any gun oils or residues with an alcohol based solvent. Place the front sight in the dovetail by hand to determine how much fitting will need to be done. Make sure the front of the sight is facing the shooters eye. The front of the sight is determined by the “flat” face of the sight. The angled face is pointed away from the shooter.
To determine how much fitting will be needed. The leading edge of the front sight dovetail should be able to be inserted by hand about halfway into the dovetail. If the sight’s dovetail does not then using a fine file or 120/220 sandpaper, remove a thin layer of the dovetail on the bottom of the sigh (front and then back). Do NOT over file! Only remove a small amount at a time until the sight dovetail can be inserted half way in the dovetail.
Once front sight fitting is complete and placed in dovetail. Use a brass or nylon sight punch to insert the sight the remaining distance. The front sight should be center within the slide for optimum shooting accuracy. Use calipers to verify.
O-Ring Retention: Ranger Point came up with our proprietary O-ring retention system several years ago while building custom rifles. The system worked beautifully in our custom stocks and works equally well in this application. O-rings create a natural friction even without a tight fit, preventing cartridges from slipping. They also isolate the cartridges from vibration, ensuring secure retention even during rough handling.
Our M-LOK quiver employs a two-ring option system. The quiver is sold with one O-ring installed in each hole. This ring has the loosest fit, but will ensure retention and ease of use under most circumstances. The second (top) O-ring groove has a slightly tighter fit, and can be used in place of, or in addition to the bottom O-ring.
We make this provision for those who will use their rifles in extreme conditions, such as freezing temperatures (O-rings shrink slightly) or rough use on OHVs. Bear in mind that using two rings per hole will make cartridges fairly difficult to remove. A twisting motion helps, especially if frost is present. We recommend trying the quiver with just the installed O-rings before assuming that more retention is necessary.
* One (bottom) O-ring is pre-installed, and works for most conditions.
* Existing O-ring may be moved to top groove for slightly tighter retention.
* Both O-rings may be used for extreme conditions.
* Use a dental pick or similar to remove O-rings.
* RPP does not recommend storing cartridges in quivers long term.
M-LOK Quiver Rail Install: The rear of our M-LOK Six Cartridge Quivers are based off the Magpul M-LOK Standard (it will work on any M-LOK rail). Our quivers have 4 attachment points on the rear of the part that require only two M-LOK slots: two locking lugs and two t-nut/scews. It takes about one minute to install the part securely.
CAUTION: The Modstock assembly utilizes serrated spring steel washers to lock the pivot joints in place. Losing or omitting these washers will result in an unsecure lockup, and unintended rotation of the stock under recoil.
CAUTION: If coating your Modstock, the pivot joint areas must be masked off from paint. Changes in tolerance or lubricity due to coating ingress may result in poor function of the pivots or unsecure lockup.
INSTALLATION: With a flathead screwdriver, remove the stock attachment screw running from upper to lower tang on the receiver. Slide the factory wooden stock rearward, off the receiver. Sometimes a few bumps with the palm of your hand may be needed to free the stock.
Slide your new Ranger Point Modstock into place on the receiver tangs. Replace the attachment screw, or replace it with one of our quick detach butt stock screws. If preferred, add the included cheek pad onto the top strut (peel and stick).
ADJUST COMB HEIGHT: Using the supplied Allen key, slightly loosen the four ¼-28 pivot bolts. Rotate the stock until you have a perfect cheek weld for your sighting solution. Tighten the pivot bolts as tight as possible using the supplied Allen key. There is no recommended torque spec for this.
NOTE: you should always use the lowest scope rings possible. Your Modstock should offer a good cheek weld with a low mounted scope, but should you need more elevation than can be achieved with stock setup, contact us about accessory cheek riser kits.
ADJUST LENGTH OF PULL (LOP):
The Ranger Point Modstock offers LOP adjustment by two means:
1) Interchangeable recoil pads. Our butt plate is made in the pattern of the common AR 6-position collapsible stock. Most, if not all recoil pads made for this stock will fit ours, and small changes in LOP may be achieved by fitting a different pad.
2) LOP shim/spacer. For very tall shooters (over 6’) Ranger Point offers a ½” spacer, available on our website. The spacer accepts the same recoil pad(s) as the butt plate.