To access the trigger, the lower tang must be removed. To get the lower tang to slide out you must first:
1. Remove the lever and locking lugs. To remove them, you must disconnect these parts from the bolt. First, unscrew the cover screw on the left side of the receiver. This screw is opposite a peep hole on the right side of the receiver. Once the screw is removed, you can push the pin out by using an appropriate punch. It only comes out one way, from right to left. Now that the bolt pin is free, simply move the lever slightly forward like you are cycling the action. Pull down, and the lever and locking blocks can be removed out the bottom.
2. Remove the stock. Quite simple, reverse the tang screw out the top. Then pull backwards to have it slide off the rear.
3. Next, capture the mainspring powering the hammer. As the hammer is cocked back, a small pin hole is exposed on the guide rod for the mainspring. Use a small piece of wire, like a paper clip, to slide into this pin hole and to take spring pressure off the hammer. This will also keep the mainspring captured, which will make reassembly much easier.
4. Remove the hammer screw. It's head is on the right side of the receiver. This screw has only a few threads and acts as an axle for the hammer to rotate around.
5. The lower tang can now slide out from the rear. You might need to use a plastic punch to get the tang motivated to move out of the receiver. The hammer should be able to fall out once the tang is removed, so be careful. Since the hammer also prevents the bolt from coming completely out, the bolt will be able to slide out too. Take care not to accidentally lose anything. If the bolt slides all the way out simply slide it back in.
The trigger is pinned to the tang. Note that the trigger spring is a flat spring secured by a blind screw. Simply back the screw out to remove the spring. We include two springs due to the fact that Rossi has recently shortened the overall length of this part in recent years. Compare your factory part to the two options to see which one it needs. Both of our included springs are the same reduced power. To remove the trigger, press out the pin securing it to the tang.
Installation is largely the reverse order of disassembly. However, do note that both the bolt and the hammer need to be in position before the lower tang is slid back on. The bolt needs to be in its raceway, as the hammer will block it from going back in. The hammer should be 'floating' in it's slot in the upper tang, as you must install it through the bottom with the lower tang removed. Take care to align the hammer's mainspring and guide rod with the hole in the lower tang while installing the lower tang. Once the lower tang is in position, the metal wire keeping the mainspring compressed can be removed.
How to Take Apart a Rossi
This kit was engineered with light weight and easy installation in mind. The retaining cap has a soft rubber O-ring and washer installed, which must be in place for proper function. The O-ring accommodates variations in length tolerance, as well as helping to absorb recoil force.
- Disassemble factory magazine
- Remove the front sight ramp (some sights may have to be drifted out to gain screw access).
- Remove the magazine cap screw (the cap is under spring pressure).
- Remove the front barrel band screw.
- Remove the rear band screw/pin. A punch may be necessary to push it out.
- Drip some oil around the front barrel band (to protect finish) and slide the barrel band off the barrel and mag tube. It is not necessary to remove the rear band.
- Be sure to retrieve the magazine follower, which may still be inside the receiver or forend.
1) With the large diameter shoulder toward receiver, index the X-1 tube so that the crosspin recess is up, toward the barrel.
2) Slide the tube into the forend and seat it in the receiver opening. It should be just below flush with the front of the forend.
3) Install the follower and spring fully into the tube. With the spring relaxed (but seated), measure just over 2 inches of free length in front of the forend and clip the excess spring with diagonal cutters.
4) Orient the retaining cap so that the crosspin lug is up toward the barrel, and install it over the spring and tube ( a little wiggling may help in capturing the tube). Slide the cap in until it seats (about ¼” protruding).
5) Look through the barrel band crosspin hole to check alignment. Modest pressure against the cap may be necessary to align the crosspin slot. Install the factory crosspin and tighten it with modest torque.
6) If you want to use the included front crosspin slot cover sleeve, degrease the barrel, put a thin smear of silicon adhesive around the pin slot area, and slide the sleeve into position. Reinstall your front sight with blue thread lock, test the mag for function, and go shoot!
Before beginning disassembly, verify that your rifle has standard forend mounting points. Most Marlins have one of two standard length forearm styles, but there are exceptions, such as Youth models and the odd 1894CL. Hold the RPP handguard up next to your rifle’s forearm and ensure that either the barrel band or cap mounting points match up.
FOREARM END CAP MODELS
- Remove forend cap screws (2) and magazine cap screw. Caution: mag caps are under spring tension. On 1894 models with front barrel bands, the mag cap will be released when the screw is withdrawn. These models will require removal of the front sight in order to get the band off. All others will be seated on a post.
- Slide the forend cap forward, away from the forearm, and lift the forearm away from the barrel. Remember that the mag cap will be released as the mag is lifted off its post. Forearms are often tightly fitted between receiver and barrel tenon. If the forearm will not easily lift away from the barrel, grasp the mag tube close to the forearm and gently use it as a pry bar. If this doesn’t work, drive a wooden or plastic wedge between the mag tube and barrel, again close to the forearm. Be aware that tightly fitted forearms may splinter when pried off the tenon.
- Test fit the RPP Modular Handguard into the receiver flange. Start the rear flange into the receiver with the handguard held at a slight angle to the barrel. Upward pressure will be required (against the barrel) in order to compress the bedding pads in the rear flange. Once started, you may use a wood or plastic block to gently tap the handguard fully into place, holding it parallel to the barrel. If the handguard will not go into the receiver flange, STOP and call RPP for further instructions.
- Once fit is assured, set the handguard aside, and drift out the factory forearm tenon. Then install the RPP tenon. Recommended tenon fit is snug, but not excessively tight. A light friction fit will suffice, but a loose fit will be weak. If the tenon is too tight, lap the flat on sandpaper over a flat surface, until the tenon can be drifted in with moderate force. Position the tenon so that the mag tube is properly aligned with the barrel when lying in the cradle of the tenon. Check handguard alignment as well. Once proper placement is achieved, the tenon should be staked or Loctited in place.
- Install the mag tube into the RPP handguard so that it is through both end caps and protruding slightly from the rear one. Be sure to index holes/slots in the tube appropriately.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Just as with your factory forend, end cap models, magazine tubes must be put inside the forend channel and properly indexed before assembly. The two parts should be assembled to the rifle in tandem. This is critical in the case of 1895s and 444s with bulged magazine tubes.
Marlin Barrel Band Models
BARREL BAND MODELS
- Remove (unscrew) the front sight ramp. It may be necessary to drift out the sight blade on some models to expose the second screw.
- Remove the magazine cap screw while preventing the cap from launching under spring pressure.
- Remove the front and rear barrel band screws and slide both bands forward off the barrel. Tip: put a few drops of oil around both bands to ease disassembly and help prevent finish scratches.
- Pull forend and mag tube off rifle and test fit your new RPP forend. See fitting instructions below if necessary.
- Install the RPP barrel band adapter onto the barrel. The screw head counterbore should be on the right. Put a drop of blue thread lock on the band screw threads, install the screw through the existing crosspin slot in the barrel, then gradually snug the screw while keeping the band indexed on the receiver (as viewed from muzzle).
- Check fit and barrel channel alignment of the forearm. Adjust band index if necessary, then tighten the screw with modest torque.
- Put blue thread lock on the supplied attachment screws, install them, and then slide the mag tube through the forearm and into the receiver port.
- Reinstall mag follower and spring, then front barrel band and magazine cap.
Please Note: These replacement levers do not come with a plunger, cross pin or spring. You’ll be able to re-use the parts from your factory lever as part of the installation process.
Remove Factory Lever - Open your action and check—then double check—that the rifle is unloaded. Return the lever to about the halfway point, remove the lever pivot screw, and then slide your old lever down and out of the action.
Re-use parts from Factory Lever – Remove the plunger, cross pin and spring from your factory lever. Lay the lever on a supportive block right side up. Use a 1/16 inch punch (file a few 1000th of an inch off diameter) to drive the plunger cross pinout toward the left. Remove the plunger and spring and insert them into the new lever. Use an oversized punch to drive the cross pin back in from left to right taking note of the splined end of the cross pin.
New Marlin Factory Parts - Same instructions as above with one change before driving in pin. Insert spring and plunger and depress until flush with lever. If it’s painful to do so, remove the spring and clip off 1 coil.
Shims - Install one or more on either side of lever at pivot screw.
Install RPP Lever in the reverse manner, being sure to engage the control blade in its corresponding bolt slot. Operate the action, feeling for hitches or excessive friction. As a final check, close the action, lower the hammer all the way, and then pop the lever open just past the plunger. You should feel a small amount of free travel in the lever right after the plunger disengages from the receiver pin. If everything feels right, you are ready to shoot. If not, your lever may need some minor fitting.
If you have any fitting problems, please email us at email@example.com
INFO WE NEED TO HELP: Remove bolt/ejector and cycle the lever. Smooth? If not, where in the cycle does it get tight?
Installation Instructions for RPP Marlin Trigger
Important! Installing this trigger will substantially reduce the effort necessary to fire the weapon, and significantly increase the possibility of an accidental discharge if safe practices are not followed. Remember the important firearm safety rule: Never put your finger on the trigger until the gun is pointed at a target you intend to fire upon. You, the end user, are responsible for the safe use of your firearm, always. No firearm should be deemed safe for live fire until it has been tested unloaded.
- Check—then double check—that your rifle is unloaded, with chamber empty
- Remove butt stock screw from top rear tang, then gently bump and pull stock rearward off receiver.
- De-cock hammer to at rest position against bolt (safety off if applicable)
- Pull hammer spring bridge sideways from between upper and lower tangs, releasing hammer spring.
- Open lever partially, remove lever pivot screw, and pull lever downward out of receiver.
- Invert rifle on a workbench and remove forward action screw just behind forearm/receiver junction.
- Lay rifle on right side and remove trigger plate support screw at low center of receiver.
- Lay rifle on left side and remove hammer pivot screw at rear of receiver.
- Remove hammer, then grasp lower tang and pull trigger plate out of receiver bottom.
- Locate large diameter trigger pivot pin on trigger plate, and use a small punch to push it out, releasing the factory trigger and sear. Unless the parts are old and crusty, a hammer is not necessary.
- Take the opportunity to clean and lubricate the action and small parts. It isn’t necessary to remove any other screws. The locking lug will slide out of the bottom of the receiver. The bolt will slide out to the rear (careful not to lose the ejector inside the bolt channel). The carrier will swing downward. Go ahead and check that loading gate screw for tightness
- Time to install your new trigger! For this step strong lighting will be helpful. Taking care not to separate the RP trigger and sear, slide the assembly upward into the trigger plate, allowing the bottom of the trigger to rotate forward. Be sure the sear is behind the lever plunger catch pin. Using your thumb near the top of the trigger face, push the assembly up and back against the sear spring until you can see the pivot holes align. With your other hand, start the freshly oiled pivot pin in the opposite side of the trigger plate. Using both hands to keep the trigger assembly aligned, finish installing the pivot pin by pushing the entire trigger plate gently down onto your workbench, wiggling the trigger assembly as necessary for alignment. Excessive force should never be necessary. Take your time, and remember that the sear and trigger can move independently.
- Reassemble the action. Be sure to put that locking lug back in, then push the trigger plate back into the bottom of the receiver. If the fit is tight, use a screwdriver handle to tap it into position until the screw holes line up.
- Place a drop of blue Loctite (optional, but recommended) on the two trigger plate screws—but not the hammer pivot! Install the foremost (longer) screw first, finger tight, then the left side (shorter) support screw. Be sure of alignment, as it is easy to cross thread the support screw.
- Slide the hammer, strut first, through the opening in the top tang, and wrangle it into position at the pivot. To do this you will need to fully depress the trigger to get the sear out of the way, and to do that you need to disengage the trigger safety by pushing the tab upward with a thumb. Once the trigger is depressed, the hammer should slide easily into alignment at the pivot hole.
- Install the hammer pivot screw. Once the threads are started flip the rifle over and get a drop of blue Loctite into the receiver threads at the hammer pivot, then torque all three actions screws and wipe away excess thread lock.
- Install your choice of hammer spring on the hammer strut. The factory spring (shorter) will give a trigger pull weight of roughly 3.5 lbs, whereas a Wolff Reduced Power Hammer Spring will typically give a pull weight of less than 3 lbs, as well as reducing cycling effort. If you are not comfortable with a 2.5-3lb trigger pull, then don’t use the Wolff power spring!
- With the hammer spring/strut angled outward, put the bridge in place and compress the spring until the lower leg of the bridge can be set into its groove in the lower tang. Continue compressing the spring until the upper leg of the bridge can be pushed under the upper tang, and center the bridge in the receiver.
- Reinstall remaining parts in reverse order of disassembly.
- Test your trigger! With the rifle empty, check pull weight and verify that it will be safe for you or any less experienced shooter who may use your rifle.
- Perform a bump test. With the rifle unloaded and hammer cocked, bump the butt pad of the rifle firmly on a padded floor to verify the hammer doesn’t drop. Just don’t get carried away and crack your stock.
- Before fielding the rifle, verify that the hammer will reliably ignite live primers/ammo in a safe shooting environment. This is especially important if using the reduced power hammer spring.
- Test fit the dovetail blank in the barrel cut. In most cases, it will slide in easily, or with gentle tapping. Do not attempt to drift the blank in with a punch, as this will damage the thin side edges.
- If the blank does not fit, use a file or sandpaper to remove material from the fore/aft sharp edges (not bevels). If removing a few thousands of an inch doesn't get a fit, the bottom of the blank may need to be lapped on fine sandpaper to loosen the overall fit. Cold blue may be used for touching up bare metal.
- Once a slip fit is achieved, degrease the blank and the dovetail cut, then apply red Loctite (or similar) generously to help fill voids and prevent rust. Wipe away excess and let set. Apply gun oil after adhesive sets.
Ranger Point profiled dovetail blanks are specially machined to mount flush on Marlin Firearms round rifle barrels. These already “profiled” dovetail blanks install in minutes and save you the 1-2 hours of filing necessary to fit other “blanks.”
The gun will need to be partially disassembled - just go slow, and remember that each screw needs to return to it's original home, so get a piece of cardboard box, draw an approximation of the receiver on it, and poke a hole in your drawing where each screw can rest until reassembly
1) Clear the rifle & ensure the chamber and magazine are EMPTY.
2) Unscrew/remove the tang screw from the upper/rear receiver tang, and pull off the butt stock to the rear.
3) Partially open bolt/lever, remove lever pivot screw and slide lever out of the bottom of the receiver (no need to remove bolt)
4) De-cock the hammer with the safety disengaged. Push forward on the hammer spring bridge and pull or push out one side of its groove. This will free the hammer spring.
5) Remove hammer pivot screw, bottom trigger plate screw and side support screws to free the trigger plate from the receiver.
6) Remove the trigger plate / lower tang from the bottom of the receiver (some gentle prying may be needed).
7) Pull the locking lug out of the bottom of the receiver and swing the carrier out of the receiver (no need to remove the carrier pivot screw)
8) Unscrew the loading gate spring (1” behind he loading gate opening) and install the new gate and screw it in
Reassemble in reverse order.
A) HOW TO MEASURE SIGHT HEIGHTS
Calculating Front Sight Height
Step 1: Measure barrel outside diameter, A, and put the dimension in the Barrel Diameter at Rear Sight field.
Step 2: Measure total rear sight height, B. Put the answer in the Rear Sight Height field.
Step 3: Measure barrel outside diameter, C, and put the answer in the Barrel Diameter at Front Sight field.
Use this Calculator to find out the Front Sight diameter, D, will be figured for you.
Calculating Rear Sight Height
Step 1: Measure barrel outside diameter, A, and put the dimension in the Barrel Diameter at Rear Sight field.
Step 2: Measure barrel outside diameter, C, and put the answer in the Barrel Diameter at Front Sight field.
Step 3: Measure total front sight height, D. Put the answer in the Front Sight Height field.
Use this Calculator to find the Rear Sight diameter, B, which will be figured for you.
Front Sight Windage
The front sight can be moved left (if shooting too far left) or right for the opposite windage. A couple of drops of red loctite can hold the front sight in place once you have it set.
Rear Sight Elevation
Pull the rear sight up to where you need it to align with the front sight. Shooting to high (move the rear sight lower) and vice versa for shooting too low.
This technique can be used for any front rifle sight with a dovetail or with a ramped dovetail. Remove factory front sight using brass or nylon punch while barrel is securely locked in vice. Clean the dovetail of any gun oils or residues with an alcohol based solvent. Place the front sight in the dovetail by hand to determine how much fitting will need to be done. Make sure the front of the sight is facing the shooters eye. The front of the sight is determined by the “flat” face of the sight. The angled face is pointed away from the shooter.
To determine how much fitting will be needed. The leading edge of the front sight dovetail should be able to be inserted by hand about halfway into the dovetail. If the sight’s dovetail does not then using a fine file or 120/220 sandpaper, remove a thin layer of the dovetail on the bottom of the sigh (front and then back). Do NOT over file! Only remove a small amount at a time until the sight dovetail can be inserted half way in the dovetail.
Once front sight fitting is complete and placed in dovetail. Use a brass or nylon sight punch to insert the sight the remaining distance. The front sight should be center within the slide for optimum shooting accuracy. Use calipers to verify.
O-Ring Retention: Ranger Point came up with our proprietary O-ring retention system several years ago while building custom rifles. The system worked beautifully in our custom stocks and works equally well in this application. O-rings create a natural friction even without a tight fit, preventing cartridges from slipping. They also isolate the cartridges from vibration, ensuring secure retention even during rough handling.
Our M-LOK quiver employs a two-ring option system. The quiver is sold with one O-ring installed in each hole. This ring has the loosest fit, but will ensure retention and ease of use under most circumstances. The second (top) O-ring groove has a slightly tighter fit, and can be used in place of, or in addition to the bottom O-ring.
We make this provision for those who will use their rifles in extreme conditions, such as freezing temperatures (O-rings shrink slightly) or rough use on OHVs. Bear in mind that using two rings per hole will make cartridges fairly difficult to remove. A twisting motion helps, especially if frost is present. We recommend trying the quiver with just the installed O-rings before assuming that more retention is necessary.
* One (bottom) O-ring is pre-installed, and works for most conditions.
* Existing O-ring may be moved to top groove for slightly tighter retention.
* Both O-rings may be used for extreme conditions.
* Use a dental pick or similar to remove O-rings.
* RPP does not recommend storing cartridges in quivers long term.
M-LOK Quiver Rail Install: The rear of our M-LOK Six Cartridge Quivers are based off the Magpul M-LOK Standard (it will work on any M-LOK rail). Our quivers have 4 attachment points on the rear of the part that require only two M-LOK slots: two locking lugs and two t-nut/scews. It takes about one minute to install the part securely.